Thru Hull Exhausts

Open Water Sailing – Choosing the Right Vessel

Ocean - seafaring is more than just pleasure, it is an instructive stage, a transportation system for understanding, and a distribution system for awareness.  Ocean sailing offers both physical and psychologically challenges.

Blue water cruising can be one of the most discouraging and pleasurable sports there is, together at the same time.  Ocean cruising people have learned how to manage their lives and personal relationships because they have to.  Ocean seafaring presents genuine problems that require true solutions, that can’t be disregarded.  Survival on the high seas is the only option.

Ocean cruising presents an educational opportunity that has full prospect for the intensification of understanding, survival skills, and attitudes that are difficult to teach in the restrictions of a classroom.  Sailing is an unbelievable tool for developing individual and team skills.  Bluewater sailing is first, the most splendid and energizing experience to be had.  But it has its unusual risks that require exceptional thought to steer clear of

Sailing craft were used by the working class of the Mediterranean area many thousands of years before the birth of Jesus.  But styles have changed as have the sailors themselves.  Builders of bluewater sailboats have resolved how sailboats are sailed these days into consideration, allowing for the added mass and swiftness the yachts buyers demand.  And of course, open water sailboats are compromises in every respect

Vessels constructed for swiftness are much frailer than those constructed for their power and strength.  But a boat’s seaworthiness has a lot to do with a seaman’s awareness.  Seaworthiness means something very dissimilar on protected lakes than on exposed seas.

When stability is compromised the yacht is not equal to the conditions that she is facing.  Maybe the subsequent broader meaning is nearer to what present-day designers aim for; a seaworthy craft is one that is able to pull through quickly from a 180-degree turtle over without acute damage and without going under.  Burly enough to care for herself while underway, obedient on the helm, and smoothly handled at all times, agile downwind and able to beat to windward, or at least hold her place, in all but the gravest of conditions.  She must able to convey ample crew with outstanding comfort and safety, plus carry ample water and provisions, for lengthy periods and be able to supply good speeds on extensive voyages.

In Principles of Yacht Design, Larsson and Eliasson write that the seaworthiness of a sea cruiser depends on its dynamic behavior in heavy seas; and dynamic affects, clearly, are much more convoluted to gage or foresee than fixed effects.  (Any boat may be turned turtle by a crashing wave with a height fifty-five percent of her overall length.

Imagery of blue water yachts cite names for instance, Ocean, Tayana and Roberts.  So what are the noteworthy attributes to look for in a deep-sea sailboat?

Satisfying to look at.  Can you be loyal to the boat--you recognize there will be issues with her, so she must make your heart flutter while you toil through them and accept them or else you'll get disgruntled early on.

Thirty-five – forty five feet on deck.  Sizeable enough to be sea-kindly and reliable in dreadful weather, yet modest enough for one to handle if necessary.

First rate survey. First-class condition and construction, and a dry sailor. No reason to keep the whole lot covered in plastic.

Good outside ventilation. . Air conditioning will not be a main worry on the high seas.

Full displacement yacht with a full keel. Able of taking charge of you in vile weather while you hunker down beneath decks.

Inboard diesel engine power-driven at not less than 3 hp/ton. Adequate power to make your way motoring or motor-sailing when needed, or to power up and get out of a risky situation.

Thick fiberglass hull. Painless to look after.

Fiberglass decks (no teak). Straightforward to watch over, and no leaks.

Lots of reachable and airy storage. These will be your billets, so you need enough space for reading materials and other comforts, as well as all the extra parts, sailing paraphernalia, etc. for blue-water cruising.

Bulwarks with drains. Exceptional solid footing while moving about the deck areas on board the craft, and good drainage in intense rain or taking on sea water.

Sturdy through-bolted deck cleats. Tough connections for dock lines.

Dual anchors, one with at least 400' chain. A second anchor for cyclone conditions, and lots of chain for ordinary circumstances.

100 gallon fuel tanks.  An ample amount to give you a range of at least 500 nautical miles under power.

Full-size water tanks. Plenty to last the party 3-4 weeks absent rain catching, or water making capabilities.

Small aft cockpit with drains and beefy pad eyes for connection.  Relaxing and safe for whoever's on duty, and safe in a seaway, with capability to drain fast if much water is shipped.

Aluminum keel-stepped mast. Negligible maintenance and extra reinforcement than deck-stepped.

First-rate handholds and foot space on deck for moving around. Critical for protection aboard.

Decent handholds and headroom below. Headroom for a 6' individual, and sturdy handholds for moving around down below when the seas are up.

Sails: Jib with roller furling. Simple to handle from the cockpit.

Sails: Staysail. Bulletproof method, no furling gear to jam, and trouble-free to take off and switch to storm jib.

Sails: Storm jib. For use on the inner forestay (replacing the staysail) in thunderstorm situations.

Sails: Storm trysail with independent mast track. For service in a storm, without having to get rid of the mainsail. Also, helpful for steadiness while sailing downwind.

Dodger, splash cloths, and bimini. Dodger with effortless visibility forward to keep the blustery weather out of the cockpit, and together with splash cloths keep crew in the cockpit dry as a bone when water is shipped, and a bimini to shadow us from the hot sun.

All berths accommodating 6'. Good for sleeping, and comfort for tall crew members.

Refrigeration.  Negligible electrical requirements but yet enough room to keep perishables cool, a freezer would also be excellent to have aboard.

Engine starting battery split from house batteries with a battery monitoring arrangement. Adequate electrical storage to illuminate and chill the boat, as well as run our basic electrical apparatus without unwarranted recharging requirements.

Autopilot. To take the edge off the helmsman when under power.

Wind vane. To substitute for the helmsman while sailing without exhausting the battery.

Emergency boarding ladder A simple to drop and recover swim ladder on the side of the yacht

Lee cloths for the berths. Luxury and sanctuary for the off-watch crew to rest below.

Three-burner propane stove-top with oven. Able to roast pretty much whatever we want.

Directions for all the equipment. So you can mend things, or find out where to go for replacement parts.

Maintenance logs. To know how old the rigging is, what the service record is for the engine, hull, plumbing, and electrical systems, etc.

Diesel stove. To keep you cozy on cold nights.

Life raft, MOB unit, flares, fire blanket, propane and CO detectors, and fire extinguishers. Necessary safety equipment.

Radios—VHF marine and Single Side Band. Indispensable communication gear.

Dinghy with outboard. Capability to get around when at anchor.

Radar. Important for course-plotting at night when close to land, or in shipping lanes, or in fog.  Also a fabulous device when approaching an unknown anchorage with a hard-to-find way in, or entering or leaving a dock at night.

Wind instruments (vane and speed) and depth sounder. Depth sounder indispensable, wind instruments extremely useful.

About the Author

Mike Dickens, the author, is a boat owner and owner/Broker of Paradise Yachts.

Paradise Yachts is a Yacht Brokerage offering used yachts to customers worldwide.

Visit our website to view our selection of Used Trawlers, Motor Yachts, and Sailboats .

National and international sales. We ship Used Yachts and Boats worldwide. Located in Florida, USA. 904/556-9431

2001 Stingray 200LX?

I am looking at an 01 Stingray 200 LX. It has a 5.7 EFI Mercuiser with 260 HP and Corsa thru hull exhaust. Looks nice but I don't know much about this make. I know very little about boats. This will be my first one. I will be using it for the family and some tubing or skiing. Is this a good boat? What speed should I be able to get out of it? Is the Corsa Thru Hull exhaust louder than stock? Thanks in advance.

Stingray is a quality rig. i would expect about 50mph out of it. the exhaust is also a quality system. as to the "loudness", that's up to you to decide. it's not as loud as headers.

THRU HULL exhaust CROWNLINE

Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings with Flaps VER-1200326 4 inch White The Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings with Flaps are designed to prevent back flow to the exhaust system or manifold when stopped, moving slowly or backing down....

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Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings With Flapper Thru-Hull Exhaust W/Flapper 4 Wht. $80.94 Centek Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings with Flapper - THRU-HULL EXHAUST W/FLAPPER 4" WHT....

Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings With Flapper Thru-Hull Exhaust W/Flapper 3 Blk. $59.17 Centek Thru-Hull Exhaust Fittings with Flapper - THRU-HULL EXHAUST W/FLAPPER 3" BLK....

Cover Keikheafer Super

Marine Lighted Rocker

LED switches

Nowadays LED switches need no special wiring for installation. There are so many choices in the switch itself that there's bound to be one that fits the room you want it in. LED switches are safe and provide a great effect to different rooms of the house. In the kitchen, perhaps over the table, one can create different moods. For a romantic dinner you can dim the lights. Dimmers help keep areas in your house functional yet look artistic and beautiful .Instilling an LED switch is an easy process. Switches of different choices are available. Some people worry about LED being a fire hazard. It is true that some switches get hot fairly easily, but that is mostly for their design, not an electricity thing. However, you need to be privy to the fact that these types of switches can only handle a specific light load. Dimmer switches available are clearly labeled with this information, all one needs to do is to look at is the wattage on the light bulbs. Then you can have an idea weather the switch is adequate or not. Because there are so many options out there in regards to switches one has a very hard time choosing what switch to choose. There are dimmer switches also available with different types of  LED switches.

Talking about different types of LED switches , some of them are mentioned here:

Blue Illuminated Bulgin Style Switch - 22mm - Black Housing - Ring Illumination

The Illuminated Bulging Style Switch is a latching switch that is the ideal switch for modifying enthusiasts. The ring around the switch can be wired to always glow, making it easy to find in the dark. Easy to install and will fit on a regular 5.25 drive cover or wherever you chose. These switches are perfect for cathodes or anything else with a toggle ON / OFF requirement. Some more features are Ring Illuminated, 22mm diameter, Bright Daylight 12 Volt LED, Separate LED Terminals, Easy Front Panel Mounting

Blue LED Rocker Switch

These rocker switches have a blue LED installed that will light up when switched to on. These can be used with our cold cathode kits or any other light kit. Also can be used to build a custom bay bus to control your fans

Green Illuminated Bulging Style - 22mm - Silver Housing - Ring Illumination

The Illuminated Bulging Style Switch is a latching switch that is the ideal switch for modifying enthusiasts. The ring around the switch can be wired to always glow, making it easy to find in the dark. Easy to install and will fit on a regular 5.25 drive cover or wherever you chose. These switches are perfect for cathodes or anything else with a toggle ON / OFF requirement. Manufactured from marine grade Stainless Steel, Bulgin's extensive range of resistant security switches are designed for use in potentially hostile environments, such as access control applications, hazardous weather areas or for your computer in your living room.

LED toggle switch

The square tip, illuminated LED radiates a vibrant, white light to give a unique look to any application. The LED reduces power draw on your electrical system and provides up to 100,000 hours of illumination. Rated for 30A at 12V DC.

LED chrome indicator light

Use this indicator lamp to identify which switch or accessory is activated. The bright, white LED provides a low-draw and is rated for up to 100,000 hours. Rated for 20mA at 12V DC.

LED switches

About the Author

Rule 43 Marine Deluxe Plastic Rocker Panel Switch (12-Volt) $21.97 Rule 3-Way Rocker Panel Switch - DELUXE PLASTIC PANEL SWITCH,12 VOLT...

Waterproof DC 7 Position Lighted Rocker & Fuse $112.37 PANELTRONICS WATERPROOF DC 7 POSITION LIGHTED ROCKER & FUSE...

Waterproof DC 5 Position Lighted Rocker & Fuse $85.66 PANELTRONICS WATERPROOF DC 5 POSITION LIGHTED ROCKER & FUSE...

Painless 80405 Blue Lighted Rocker Switch $11.99 Rocker Switch On/Off Blue Light Replacement Rocker Switch...

Painless 80403 Red Lighted Performance Replacement Rocker Switch $16.00 Rocker Switch On/Off/On Red Light Replacement Rocker Switch...

Coax Spks Case

MB Quart ONYX Speaker Series

Wheel Welded Stainless

Choosing an Exhaust System

Gibson Performance Exhaust systems are manufactured in gas and diesel applications for cars, trucks and sport utility vehicles with a limited lifetime warranty and will not effect factory warranties. With options such as aluminized or Stainless Steel and five different exhaust exits, there is no going wrong with Gibson’s line of performance cat-back systems. You will certainly find what you are looking for in this line with the style, torque, tone and brilliant engineering, whether your vehicle is for work or for play. The performance and durability of these parts are also quite impressive. Almost all of the parts come zinc-plated with heavy-duty stainless steel clamps and offer the maximum exhaust flow for the most efficient exhaust and have three to four- inch tailpipes.

The Gibson Side Swept Exhaust will provide a quick acceleration and the best towing power. Hill-climbing is at its easiest with a low-end horsepower gain and at the same time you’ll have a quiet in-cab, low tone. Exit is behind the rear tire near stock, and the mandrel- bent tubing keeps exhaust flow constant for maximum performance. This side-swept exhaust comes with a T-304 high polished stainless steel clamp-less slash tip and zinc plated 3/8 to ½ inch factory style hangers, heavy-duty clamps, and stainless steel- 409L Stainless heavy -duty tubing, as do most of the exhausts.

The Gibson Dual Cat-back Exhaust horsepower gains are 10-15 and 15-20lb-ft of increase torque and will result in better fuel efficiency. Some of the best qualities of this exhaust system are the easy bolt-on installation, a great look and a decrease in the negative exhaust damage to your tow trailer. It will provide the same great exhaust flow and come zinc-plated as mentioned above, but it adds on a Superflow TM Muffler that is fully welded, baffled and chambered for better volume efficiency.

With the Split Rear Bolt-on Cat-back Exhaust there is an increase in horsepower and torque as a result of decreased backpressure. It will work on most bumpers but with some vehicles you might need to remove the spare tire, and it is not suggested for towing because of carbon monoxide issues. The best qualities of this are the improved horsepower (average gain of 15-20) and the aggressive sound.

An alternative to the Split Rear Bolt- on Cat-back is the Gibson Extreme Dual Bolt-on Cat-back. This exhaust is great for looks (dual exits behind the rear wheels at an angle) and even better for performance. Your towing, passing, and accelerating abilities will skyrocket.

The Gibson Super Truck Exhaust is fast, powerful, and loud. There are definite dyno-tested gains in horsepower, torque, and fuel efficiency and noise levels hit 95 decibels.

The point of a diesel exhaust is to decrease backpressure, lower temperatures and provide power. With Gibson’s Diesel Single Side Exit Exhaust you will get just that. This heavy-duty exhaust provides a dyno-tested increase as much as 32 horsepower and, in addition, 60 ft-lbs in torque. This comes with a four-inch Mandrel-bent tailpipe allowing maximum flow and performance. If you want this in a dual exhaust it is available with a three-inch tailpipe and rear-wheel exits at an angle. This is the Gibson Diesel Extreme Dual Exhaust.

Another good option to the Dual Diesel Extreme is the Diesel Dual Sport Exhaust. Gibson manufactured this one for a great look, a 30 ft-lbs torque increase, and an awesome sound. This comes in the large three-inch Mandrel-bent tailpipe with the Superflow TM Muffler. The Dual Sport also provides a 15 horsepower increase.

Gibson’s line of American Muscle car exhausts can be used on V6 and V8 Dodge Chargers, Ford Mustangs, and GTO’s. They come with T-304 high-polished stainless steel clamp-less slash tips and muffler and, as always, will provide increased torque and horsepower and overall better performance of your vehicle. All zinc-plated, produce a great rumble, and easy to install.

Last but not least, Gibson has great Performance Headers. Each one is Dyno-tuned for street and off-road vehicles, raised or lowered, and they cool engine temperatures in extreme off-roading, racing, or highway speeds. One of the best qualities is that you can use the stock crossover pipe and drop the headers in as exact replacements of factory manifolds. Great features of Gibson headers include: 50 state street legal, OEM style connections, laser cut port flanges, air injection and oxygen sensor fittings, and the fact that there is no need for welding as they are completely bolt-on. They come in nickel chrome plated (very durable), stainless steel or ceramic coated with high-temperature polished coating.

About the Author

At www.autocarparts.com car owners can purchase Gibson exhaust systems as well as other performance exhaust systems that improve the car's overall performance.

What are great ways to prepare aluminum before welding?

Hello,

I have read a lot of opinions. The standard seems to be brushing with a stainless steel brush in the same direction a bit (or stainless steel wheel?), cover it in acetone, then spraying it down with water followed by drying it.

Is this accurate? Are their superior methods or changes at all?

Thank you!

All of these are good practices.

Cleaning with acetone or other solvents should take place BEFORE any grinding or brushing. The point of this step is to simply to remove dirt and grease.

The point of using a stainless wire brush or wire wheel is to strip off the thin film of aluminum oxide, as well as removing any kind of remaining inorganic contaminants. If you grind or use sandpaper, a wire brush is still recommended as those methods can leave grit and other contaminants behind.

The oxide film causes problems with fusion and penetration, as well as contaminating the weld, causing inclusions and making it more brittle. Sometimes if you try to weld aluminum that hasn't been scrupulously cleaned, the filler will just float on top of the oxide layer and not fuse at all. MIG welding aluminum is particularly susceptible to this problem.

If you degrease the metal AFTER this step, the bare aluminum will react with the water and/or acetone causing the oxide film to reform immediately.

Joints should be ground and/or brushed Immediately prior to welding. Also be sure to use a brush or grinder that has only been used on aluminum, to avoid cross-contamination.

Low Density Tantalum Pellet Compaction for Weld Strength

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Coleman Boston Whaler